In January 2023, we embarked on a journey to the Galapagos Islands, which I have detailed in a previous post. Before our return, we decided to spend several days in mainland Ecuador. Planning began months before our departure so that when we arrived, we knew what we were planning on doing, which tours we were going on, and with whom. I hope you enjoy this article.
We arrived in Quito, the capital of Ecuador, from Baltra, Galapagos, at about four in the afternoon. We took a taxi from the airport to the Casa Anabela Hotel. The taxi ride took approximately 45 minutes from the airport and cost $30. This small family-run hotel is located in the center of Old Town Quito, and the location was very convenient. Prior reviews of the hotel were very good. However, reviews also warned that the Old Town area was unsafe at night and prone to pickpockets during the day.
Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the owners of this small family-run hotel. The exterior was rather bland, featuring two large wooden doors. When the doors opened, however, the place was stunning! It comprised two buildings walled over a century ago to create a compound with a center courtyard. This courtyard served as a dining and gathering area for social occasions.
The following morning, Sunday, after having breakfast, we started to head out to visit Old Town and one of the local churches. As we were leaving, one of the hotel owners warned us about pickpockets who would through bird droppings on our clothing and then steal from us under the guise of helping us. We thanked them for the tip, and we were approached less than a block from the hotel, and it happened exactly as described. Though we were attacked this way, we were well-prepared, making us angry at them rather than being scared. We were determined not to let this ruin our day and had a fantastic time!
Our first stop was the Basilica del Voto Nacional. (Basilica the National Vow). The Basilica is the largest noe-Gothic church in South America, measuring 460 feet long and 115 feet wide. Its two front towers reach 377 feet tall.
The interior consists of one long central nave with two smaller adjoining naves with a domed ceiling and stained glass windows. There are 24 small chapels around the central; sanctuary, each representing a different province of Ecuador. The exterior facade includes a series of gargoyles representing animals endemic to Ecuador, including iguanas, tortoises, armadillos and condors.
The basilica’s construction began in 1890 and took more than 30 years to build. The first mass took place in 1924, but it wasn’t until 1985 that the church was blessed by Pope John Paul II, and until 1988 until it was consecrated and finally inaugurated. Technically, the basilica has not been completed because of the local legend that “if the basilica is ever completed, the world will come to an end.”
Outside, meanwhile, is a series of gargoyles that might look more familiar than the fantastical grotesques that normally adorn the facades of churches and cathedrals. The gargoyles of the Basilica del Voto Nacional all represent animals endemic to Ecuador, including iguanas, tortoises, armadillos and condors.
Technically speaking, the Basilica del Voto Nacional has never been completed, at least not officially. According to local legend, this permanent incompletion is due to a fairly weighty premise: if the basilica is ever completed, the world will end.
Following our visit to the Basilica, we walked through Old Town to the Plaza Grande. Fortunately, it was downhill all the way! Plaza Grande is a large central park-like area where people gather to visit, watch, shop, and eat. It is bordered on one side by La Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus (The Church of the Company of Jesus), and on a hill, high above the plaza, the statue of Virgin del Penecillo (Virgin Mary), both places which we visited before returning to our hotel later in the day.
After enjoying time in the plaza, we decided to visit La Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. We expected to visit the church, examine its architecture, and admire its beauty, but upon entering, we were quickly sidetracked by a beautiful display depicting biblical times and the life of Jesus. Half the church was cordoned off to create the diorama with lighting and sound effects. I hope you enjoy the following video.
As you saw, the display was amazing and unexpected. After an hour of visiting the display and church, we caught a cab and headed to our next stop, the fantastic Virgin del Penecillo. Our driver was very pleasant and informative, and the taxis here are reasonable. So, after a 15-minute, hairpin-turn-filled trip up the mountain, we arrived at our destination. Also, check out the video below for a look at the beautiful stained glass windows at the statue’s base.
After exploring the statue and climbing as high as possible, we visited a couple of the surrounding shops and grabbed lunch. Then, the real fun began. We thought we would walk down the mountain rather than take a cab back. It was a beautiful day with a sidewalk and staircase running down the mountain and through the neighborhood. We were later told we must be brave as it wasn’t the best neighborhood, but everyone was nice, and we had no problems. However, as we descended, we realized that it was much further than it seemed, so after taking a break, watching part of a soccer game, and kids playing, we eventually took a cab back to the Plaza Grande and then made out way back to the hotel.
As you can see, though we had a relatively short time in Quito, we did manage to see many of the highlights. After a good night’s rest, tomorrow we will be off to the Andes Mountains and Mindo Cloud Forest for two additional days before returning home. As the post will be rather lengthy, I will share those experiences separately. Thanks for reading!